As the head of an association of winemakers in southern Ukraine, Georgiy Molchanov knows a lot about how to cultivate grapes; not so much how to grow them amid undetonated mines
Georgiy Molchanov, the head of an association of winemakers in southern Ukraine, has been thrust into an unexpected challenge: learning to manage vineyards littered with undetonated mines.
The Russian rocket attack that showered his vineyard near Mykolaiv with explosives in August 2022, amid the ongoing conflict, has not only caused damage but also posed a grave threat to his livelihood. The war, now raging for over two years, has wreaked havoc across Ukraine, but Molchanov is finding hope through the support of international aid.
With assistance from Roots of Peace and Rotary International, he’s been equipped with the necessary expertise and resources to safely remove the mines. In a remarkable show of solidarity, these organisations have also partnered with Grgich Hills Estate winery in Napa Valley to offer Molchanov and five other Ukrainian winemakers a chance to learn about regenerative organic farming at their Rutherford site.
This method focuses on nurturing soil health and maintaining ecological harmony. During their weeklong visit, they’re diving into ways to enrich their land naturally. “We are discussing how to bring nature, how to bring wines, not harm … into this land,” Molchanov, who leads the Association of Craft Winemakers in Ukraine’s Black Sea region, said optimistically.
Entrepreneurs in Ukraine are not only striving to keep their businesses afloat amidst the conflict but also aim to convey a powerful message of resilience and hope for a peaceful future. “People in Ukraine are still alive,” declared Svitlana Tsybak, Owner and chief executive of Beykush Winery in the Mykolaiv region. “Yes, war is in our soul, in our life, but we need … to live our lives so, of course, we need to work.”
Despite the proximity of Russian troops, stationed just 4 miles from her vineyard, Tsybak’s operations remain unaffected. Her winery has even begun exporting wine to the United States six months ago, and she is keen on learning how to further expand Ukrainian wine’s footprint in the US market.
Heidi Kuhn, a Californian peace activist and founder of Roots of Peace, has dedicated decades to clearing landmines from areas devastated by war, transforming them into productive agricultural lands such as vineyards, orchards, and vegetable fields. Rotary International, a long-time collaborator with Roots of Peace, organized the program for the Ukrainian winemakers and sponsored their journey to California.
“There’s an estimated 110 million landmines in 60 countries, and today Ukraine tragically has over 30% of the land riddled with landmines,” Kuhn revealed, discussing the harrowing reality that underscores her “mines to vines” initiative.
In 2000, Kuhn joined forces with the late Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, founder of Grgich Hills Estate, and fellow winemakers to raise money for clearing landmines in the war-torn Vukovar, a city in eastern Croatia known for its winemaking heritage along the Danube, which was devastated during the 1991-95 conflict in the former Yugoslavia.
Ivo Jeramaz, Mike Grgich’s nephew, who hails from Croatia and crafts wines at Grgich Hills Estate, expressed his deep empathy for Ukrainians, drawing from his own harrowing experiences of war. He highlighted that the family-run winery has been supporting Roots of Peace for many years.
“This is just the beginning of a hopeful relationship to literally restore the health of this country,” he remarked. “I hope that not only they see how farming can be conducted without harmful chemicals, but also that they’re inspired and that their hope is elevated.”
