Filled with vast fields of lava rock, hot springs, black beaches and more seabirds than humans, this breathtakingly beautiful island makes you feel like you’re completely ‘alone in the universe’
Escape the droves of selfie-stick-waving tourists on this stunningly remote island that’s less than five hours from the UK. Straddling the iconic Arctic Circle, and defined by a lush landscape of rugged cliffs and dramatic shores, lies a tiny isle with just a handful of permanent residents.
Located just 24.8 miles off the coast of Iceland, GrÃmsey is classed as the country’s northernmost inhabited island and is guaranteed to make you feel like you’re completely ‘alone in the universe’. With more seabirds than locals, this breathtaking island is a haven for nature lovers – and has become a major nesting site for the majestic puffin.
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Here, you’ll also find jet-black beaches, vast fields of lava rock, hot springs, a solitary lighthouse looking out to sea, and the elusive northern lights (if you’re lucky). “One of the major attractions of GrÃmsey is the puffin that makes its nest in the cliffs in April and goes back to sea in August,” explains North Iceland, the area’s official tourist board.
“Another one is the Arctic Circle, with many visitors aiming to step over the circle. In 2017 a new landmark was revealed that signifies where the Arctic Circle goes through the island. It’s a giant ball and is called ‘Orbus et Globus.’ [which] weighs almost seven tons and is moved each year to align to the Arctic Circle.”
According to the BBC, there are only 20 people living on the island – which measures in at just 2.5 square miles – full time. Until 1931, the only way to reach GrÃmsey was by hopping on a small boat that delivered mail to the island twice a year. But life here has become much more convenient in recent years, following the launch of three weekly domestic flights.
Halla Ingolfsdottir, a local tour guide on the island, grew up on the mainland, but moved to the island full time in 2019 – and has no regrets. “People think I moved here for love, but I fell in love with the island,” she told the BBC.
“There’s a magic, and I fell in love with how people lived here, the islanders and the nature. Nature is very powerful here; it’s a different natural force in the winter, and with the darkness comes the Northern Lights, the stars and the storms. In spring comes the light, and the birds; every season is special.”
Getting to GrÃmsey isn’t super straightforward, which might explain its lack of tourism. First, you’ll have to fly into Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik, which takes around three hours and 12 minutes.
You can get direct flights from a slew of major UK airports, including Manchester, Edinburgh, Liverpool, London Luton and Heathrow. If you’re flexible with dates, you can grab return fares for as little as £86 in September.
After touching down in Iceland, you’ll need to head to the northern city of Akureyri. This 241-mile journey takes approximately four hours and 45 minutes in a hire car. Alternatively, you can take a 45-minute flight, which costs around £180 for a round trip. Lastly, you’ll need to take a 30-minute flight from Akureyri over to GrÃmsey. From June to September, Norlandair has two to three scheduled flights to the island per week.
Once you’ve finally arrived in GrÃmsey, your accommodation options will be limited. For example, on Booking.com there is only one B&B available for a three-night stay on Friday, August 15-18. This is Guesthouse Básar, which offers comfortable but no-frill rooms with sea views. A double room with a shared bathroom on these dates will set you back £391, which includes a ‘superb’ breakfast.
*Prices based on Skyscanner and Booking.com listings at the time of writing.
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