If you’re looking for a quiet bolthole away from the crowds in Sardinia but still want to make the most of the incredible coastline, then there’s one hotel that needs to be on your radar
While the White Lotus effect may have drawn more visitors to Sicily, Italy’s second island Sardinia is also well worth exploring.
With its untrammelled coastline, turquoise waters and lush landscape, it is the ideal alternative – whether you’re lying by the beach, hiking over soaring cliffs or discovering the island’s long-held traditions.
You can do all of that from the Cala Cuncheddi, a secluded oasis of a hotel on the northeast of the island. Set among myrtle, centuries-old olive trees and Mediterranean scrub, and boasting its own private beach replete with golden sand and crystal-clear waters, it’s just a 20-minute taxi from Olbia Costa Smeralda airport.
Part of the VRetreats Italian hotel collection, which prides itself on offering stays set within historic buildings with a “strong personality and sense of place”, the hotel is an idyllic bolthole to escape from the busier, well-trodden resorts, but still well-situated enough for those who want to rent a car and explore.
Style
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Renovated just over 10 years ago, this four-star property feels reminiscent of an upscale beach house and offers panoramic views from the poolside and many of the property’s suites and rooms. Wildflower landscaping, rustic paving stones and nods to the traditions of Sardinia – think animal masks, mosaics and ocean-inspired installations – run throughout the hotel’s grounds, providing a synergy between old and new, giving the experience a serene and calming air.
Its infinity pool overlooking the glistening waters of Li Cuncheddi Bay is its calling card, but the hotel’s 85 rooms and suites across three levels are beautifully designed to feel both contemporary and traditional with natural colour schemes, oak fixtures, and a mix of marble, Molteni&C and concrete furnishings.
The majority have a sea view, while some have Moorish-style patios or verandas, and others overlook the gardens, the latter beautifully scented with native flowers and trees. The hotel also encompasses a fitness suite with Technogym equipment as well as its own spa, which extends past the private garden and on to the beach, with gazebos set up for guests to continue massages with beauty specialists.
Food and drink
The strong link to Sardinian tradition and culture takes you seamlessly from morning to night with tailored dining experiences. Asumari restaurant offers both an indoor space and seafront terrace giving its guests the opportunity to dine as the sun sets or even under the stars. Dishes here showcase the best of sea and land, with raw seafood platters, Olbia octopus and Rossini-style beef fillet just some of the options, while the saffron risotto with shrimp and squash blossoms is exquisite.
By Asumari you’ll also find an extensive wine cellar featuring not only Sardinian wines, but Italian elixirs, aperitifs and cooking oils to take home. Private gourmet dining and wine tasting can be arranged.
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Zinnibiri means juniper in Sardinian, and is also the name of the hotel’s other restaurant. Set within the hotel garden with a view of the bay, it offers “zero-km” dishes with traditional recipes given a contemporary edge. Save the best until last and try seadas, a crisp, deep fried pastry filled with lemon, oozing cheese and soaked in honey.
And over at the pool bar, you’ll be well looked after too, whether it’s smoothies, iced coffees or light snacks in the day, or a sunset cocktail or aperitif come evening. The terrace leading on from reception is also a perfect spot to watch the sunset – and enjoy a spritz.
While you’re there
The best way to explore the island’s azure blue waters, granite cliffs and numerous caves is by jumping on a boat. A short drive away to Olbia’s port and we met with our skipper for the day and sailed out towards Capo Ceraso, admiring the stunning inlets, bays and majestic cliffs of Capo Figari. A notable stop-off and first opportunity for a quick dip came courtesy of “Doctor’s Beach”, a small cove next to the beach of Porto Istana, which can only be reached by boat or land, the latter a good 30-minute trek on foot.
We continued towards Isola Cavalli and Isola Piana to explore the crystal-clear waters of these two small islands, before heading around Tavolara, a tiny island with a larger-than-life claim to fame – the self-proclaimed Kingdom of Tavolara. In 1806, Giuseppe Bertoleoni arrived on the then-uninhabited island, establishing his reign – a claim so convincing he was acknowledged by the King of Sardinia in 1836.
Anchoring at Cala Spalmatore di Terra for a lunch prepared by the skipper’s family, and encompassing canapés, cold cuts, cheeses and traditional Sardinian sweets, there can’t be a more idyllic spot to have a bite to eat as you overlook the bays and beautiful beach with fine white sand.
A last stop at Molara, part of the Marine Protected Area of Tavolara-Punta Coda Cavallo, with its famous “piscine” (natural pools), and it’s back to port having explored some of Sardinia’s gorgeous coastline.
A day out
A Jeep tour of the Barbagia area can be arranged from the hotel, stopping at various scenic viewpoints and ancient points of interest.
We were whisked away to discover the wild beauty of Su Gologone, a mountain spring with crystal-clear waters perched beneath limestone cliffs, took in the awe-inspiring views of the Supramonte mountain range, and stopped off in the town of Orgosolo. It’s well worth taking a pit stop here and looking at the town’s walls, many of which feature intricate murals telling the story of Sardinian life, culture and politics.
Lunch was alfresco with shepherds, with everything from locally made salami and cheese, to roasted pork cooked on a spit in front of you and traditional breads lovingly dished up and washed back with local red wines and potent digestives. Rounded off with a traditional dance courtesy of our hosts, this was a true taste of Sardinian culture.
Book the holiday
- Flights to Olbia Costa Smeralda airport in Sardinia are available from Birmingham, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Heathrow, London City, Luton, Manchester and Stansted.
- Rooms at the Hotel Cala Cuncheddi near Olbia start at around ÂŁ210 a night B&B. vretreats.com/cala-cuncheddi
- More info at sardegnaturismo.it/en
