For an island that is just 20 miles long, Aruba has a lot to offer, from boutique hotels and top-notch restaurants to golden beaches and crystal clear sea – and, according to the tourist board’s website, more sunny days than any other Caribbean island, a “practically non-existant” rainy season, and is shielded from tropical storms.
The main tourist area, Palm Beach, is the place to stay if you like all the amenities on your doorstep. You’ll find every cuisine here, from Japanese to Mexican, and there are watersports huts at frequent intervals along this busy stretch of sand.
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We preferred neighbouring Eagle Beach, where there are fewer sunbeds competing for a shady spot under a palm tree and where you’ll see the occasional red and white fence protecting a turtle nest in the pristine white sand. If you’re lucky, you might be there when one of the nests hatches.
We also spent time at Arashi Beach in the north and Baby Beach in the south, which are both favourites with the locals as they’re away from the hustle and bustle of the big hotels. Take your own sunloungers if you don’t want to lie on the sand as hiring them can be pricey.
The beaches on the wild Atlantic coast are well worth a visit too. It’s too dangerous to swim there, but we were mesmerised watching the huge waves crashing into the shore.
Where to stay in Arubu
Manchebo Beach Resort & Spa
Manchebo Beach Resort & Spa is a stylish boutique hotel on Eagle Beach with a laid-back luxury feel. With just 72 rooms and suites, many overlooking the vast stretch of powdery sand in front of the hotel, it never feels crowded. There’s a large pool for those who prefer not to swim in the sea, or you can relax beneath one of the palapas (umbrellas made of woven palm leaves) spaced out across the beach. The hotel also provides free sun screen, which is a nice touch.
We loved the wellness offering at Manchebo, from the morning yoga classes in the pavilion – with a view of the sea and the sound of birdsong to help you find your inner Zen – to the cosy spa with its treatment rooms that back on to the beach. There’s something even more relaxing about a full body massage when it comes with a soundtrack of waves rolling on to the shore.
There are also pilates classes – we liked that some of these don’t start till 9.30am so you don’t have to get up too early – and a small gym, although we have to admit we skipped that in favour of long walks along the shore.
Boardwalk Boutique Hotel
After three wonderful nights at Manchebo, we moved to Boardwalk Boutique Hotel for a very different but equally luxe stay. Here, 49 brightly painted casitas (guest houses) nestle among the tropical plants in the gorgeous grounds, which were once a coconut plantation.
Our casita was light and spacious, with comfy beds, a walk-in shower and a fully equipped kitchen. We were particularly impressed by the barbecue (and the hammock) on our private verandah. You can order a BBQ Box at reception containing everything you need for an al fresco dinner.
The tranquil gardens are home to two pools, shady seating areas and the cosy Coco Bay restaurant, where breakfast, lunch and dinner are served. The main pool is especially popular from 3-5pm as it’s happy hour daily, with discounted cocktails. If you prefer your lunch with a sea view, the hotel offers a free shuttle service to Palm Beach, where it has its own area with sunbeds and palapas, and you can order food and drinks from the friendly staff there.
Where to eat in Arubu
By far the standout meal of our trip was the eight-course chef’s table experience at Infini. Our evening kicked off with a glass of fizz on the terrace while watching the sunset, then we were seated at a curved table that gives diners an uninterrupted view of the chefs preparing the dishes. Each course was an explosion of flavours and textures, and the carefully curated wine pairing was the perfect finishing touch.
Another highlight was our al fresco dinner at Papiamento, in the beautifully lit courtyard of a 100-year-old Aruban cunucu house. Here, we enjoyed a tour of the house and wine cellar before sitting down to one of the restaurant’s signature stone specials – local fish, shrimp and rock lobster served on a sizzling stone so you can cook it to your liking.
We also had an exceptional meal at the family-run Peruvian bistro Lima, where we feasted on ceviche and scallops on the outdoor patio with oceanfront views. And at Taste My Aruba, we loved the fresh, local ingredients, the obvious joy owner Nathaly de Mey takes in the menu and the great cocktails that were custom-made for us by her master mixologist.
For a cocktail with a difference, head to The West Deck to try its famous beer-rita. It doesn’t look like it should work but this unusual take on a margarita, with a bottle of local Balashi beer flowing into it as you drink, is wonderfully crisp and refreshing.
As for lunchtimes, Zeerovers is a must-visit. Once a docking area used by fishermen, now locals and tourists alike flock there for its fresh- off-the boat seafood, which is fried and served in a basket. We sat on the sea-facing wooden deck and had the best prawns of our trip here.
What to do in Arubu
Top of our list of things to do was the Aruba Outdoor Adventures kayak and snorkelling small group tour at Mangel Halto. Our first surprise was that the kayaks have no oars – you paddle with your feet, which is a lot easier than rowing. We followed our guide along the coast before heading further out to sea and mooring at a platform where the water is shallow enough to stand. Then our snorkelling adventure began and the seabed here is teeming with coral and fish of every colour – it took our breath away.
We also snorkelled by ourselves at Tres Trapi Beach, where the three steps carved into the rock provide easy access to the sea. There are hundreds of fish here too, but the real treat is the giant turtles swimming in the clear water. Tres Trapi is a 30-minute walk from the Boardwalk Boutique Hotel – go early to avoid the crowds that arrive with the tour boats.
You can’t go to Aruba without visiting its national park Arikok. Here, we enjoyed a guided hike through the towering indigenous cacti, explored the bat-inhabited caves and braved a natural fish pedicure in the only freshwater pond on the island – a slightly unnerving but not unpleasant sensation. The park’s big draw is its Natural Pool, formed by a depression in the volcanic rock. Sea spray flies over the rugged sea wall as you swim in the naturally formed basin and there’s plenty to see underwater, so be sure to bring your snorkel here too.
Back on dry land, we loved the street mural tour in the town of San Nicholas. Art enthusiast Tito Bolivar began his mission to transform San Nicholas in 2015, inviting talented muralists from around the world to paint walls, buildings and benches in a bid to breathe new life into the forgotten town. The result is a fascinating exhibition of street art and our passionate guide shared some of the stories behind the murals, explaining how the project has boosted the area and encouraged creativity all over the island.
A stylish boutique hotel on Aruba’s Eagle Beach with a laid-back luxury feel.
A four-star adults only hotel with 49 brightly painted casitas (guest houses) nestled among the tropical plants on a former coconut plantation.
How much does it cost?
KLM flies to Aruba from the UK daily (via Amsterdam). Rooms at Boardwalk Boutique Hotel start from £300 per night. Rooms at Manchebo Beach Resort & Spa start from £300 per night. See aruba.com/uk for more info on the island (Facebook: facebook.com/ArubaFansUK; Instagram: @arubatourismuk).
You can also search for the best flight route and price on Skyscanner.
