Canton in Cardiff has been named one of the UK’s coolest neighbourhoods by Time Out – and it’s no surprise to me, as I was born there and have seen it change completely
It came as no surprise that my former stomping ground, Canton, made Time Out’s list of the UK’s coolest neighbourhoods.
Third place, just behind Camberwell and Digbeth.
I assume it only missed the number one spot because no one from London can bear not to be top dog.
The publication writes: “For years, Canton was seen as a funnel for football fans heading to the nearby Cardiff City Stadium, but now it’s a thriving neighbourhood. Reached via a 30-minute walk from the city centre, it’s home to a selection of shops and cafes which are well worth the amble out of town; Chapter Arts Centre offers everything from indie flicks and vogue balls to top-class cocktails, while Hard Lines Coffee and Ffloc boast exquisite lunch offerings. Then there’s Corp Market, a defunct pub refashioned into a brilliantly eclectic traders market which is also home to Head Above The Waves, a non-profit skatewear boutique and mental health support hub.”
For those not in the know, the multicultural area of Canton was previously regarded as a less appealing Cardiff suburb you travelled through en route to Ninian Park, preferably clutching a sausage roll and harbouring modest hopes for the final score. Nowadays, property values are rocketing as the middle classes flood in, according to Wales Online.
For outsiders, it’s where you venture when you’ve grown weary of Pontcanna for matcha lattes, breakfast burritos, and ‘Anti Bad Vibes Room Sprays’.
I’m not joking. I can say this with authority as my mum’s family originates from there, while my dad is part of a 13-strong Ely clan, potentially making me a super Cardiffian hybrid.
I was even born there, on Cowbridge Road, thank you very much, in a time when a £17 brunch wasn’t a thing and a pickled egg from the chippy was considered the height of sophistication.
In those days, Canton was a solid working-class area where mums did the ‘big shop’ for the week and dads offered their football analysis to anyone who would listen outside the smoky pub.
Cowbridge Road itself was also a retail adventure. You could purchase vacuum bags, pick’n’mix from Woollies, and three leeks for a quid, all without crossing the road or spending more than a tenner.
Tuck-In Cafe served up a decent fry-up that cost less than your oat milk coffee. Franklin’s Bakery resided on the corner of Gray Street for nearly a hundred years.
So did Pope’s Photography, which captured every wedding, christening, and regrettable fringe from Ely to Llandaff.
Most of that has disappeared now. Woolworths sadly closed its doors in 2009 and was reborn as a charity shop, naturally. Franklin’s shut down. Pope’s went dark.
But somehow, the local cobbler is still there and did a splendid job on my worn-out heels. It seems these shoes were not made for walking.
The new wave has officially swept in, replacing the old guard with sourdough. Hard Lines Coffee, one of my favourite haunts, is a retro greasy spoon given an Instagram makeover.
Corp Market has transformed the traditional Corporation pub into a kaleidoscope of independent dreams: craft beer, ethical earrings, natural wine, craft workshops, locally sourced coffee beans and more.
It’s also home to Head Above The Waves, a non-profit skatewear boutique and mental health support hub where you can snap up trucker caps and slogan tees.
Just a short walk away, Cardiff Chapter Arts Centre has long been at the heart of Cardiff’s cultural scene. Founded by artists in 1971 to champion experimentation and radical thought, it’s been sparking creativity and critical thinking ever since.
This red brick retro gem houses an independent cinema, cafe bar, performance space, and community classes and is a vital hub for Canton. Here, you can tuck into a smoked bacon bap, join a creative writing session, and catch an indie film all in one day. Brilliant.
The food scene has also exploded here. The award-winning Purple Poppadom is now a culinary institution, serving up classic curries and innovative dishes.
The former Barclays Bank has been transformed into the latest branch of the award-winning Haystack cafe, famed for its Instagram-worthy pancake stacks and posh breakfasts served in frying pans. Just a short walk away is Floc, where you can order single-origin coffee and the city’s best iron-grilled cheese sandwiches.
Burger Boyz has become a go-to spot for a top-notch burger. Founded by school friends Marcin Sadlos and Jack Phillips in 2021, the enterprising pair bought a food truck and took over the kitchen at The Red Lion pub in Port Talbot.
They then secured a spot at Newport Market and opened a restaurant in Port Talbot.
Since then, Burger Boyz has opened a location right next to Victoria Park in Canton, Cardiff. Here you’ll find a tempting selection of dry-aged Welsh beef smash burgers, loaded fries, and sides.
Just down the road, Workhorse combines an ultimate hipster mix of bicycles, bagels, and brews. You can get your cargo bike fixed while you sip anaerobic natural microlot coffee. I have no idea what that is, but I’m sure it’s heavenly.
One of my favourite spots for a laid-back dinner in Canton is Calabrisella, a Cardiff institution that serves the best arancini you’ll ever eat. Their pizzas are also particularly excellent.
Try the Dello chef pizza, loaded with mozzarella, gorgonzola, goat cheese, smoked scamorza, nduja, walnuts, honey, Calabrian spianata salami and Parmesan.
Kimchi, a beloved Korean dish, is the star of the show at this eatery where you can grill your own meat and veggies right at your table.
Mattancherry, a vibrant Indian restaurant, draws inspiration from the diverse and coastal region of Kochi. The owners have created a dining experience that celebrates its rich culinary and social history.
Don’t miss out on the Mattancherry Special Thali, a feast of two main dishes, a mini starter, potato, dal, rice, poppadum, pickle, raitha, salad, and bread.
For those craving Thai flavours, the Bangkok cafe offers a solid selection of traditional dishes, including the tangy Pad Thai and Moo Yang.
When it comes to Sunday lunch, the Lansdowne is my go-to spot. This bustling community pub is known for its scrumptious homemade food and lively atmosphere.
Their Sunday roast, complete with generous helpings of gravy and a mouth-watering selection of starters, is not to be missed.
Expect classic roast meats, as well as unique dishes like butternut and cashew roast, all served with proper Yorkshires, roast potatoes, seasonal vegetables, hearty gravy, and creamy cauliflower cheese.
Victoria Park’s surrounding area has undergone a transformation, becoming one of Canton’s most appetising corners.
Just across the park, Pettigrew Bakeries continues to entice early birds with the aroma of freshly baked sourdough and flaky pastries. Their commitment to “real bread” has made them a standout in Cardiff’s bakery scene.
Good luck resisting their croissants – you’ll likely leave with a handful!
Close by, indie favourite Hiraeth Kitchen operates as a cosy neighbourhood eatery offering a set-course ‘forever changing’ taster menu and welcoming diners seeking a “glass of wine and some picky bits.”
Creative dishes on offer include Rainbow chard kimchi, Mushroom parfait, and Cheese doughnut.
Meanwhile, there’s Caws Canton, the fresh arrival from The Welsh Cheese Company. Part cheese shop, part wine retailer, and completely perilous for anyone with a soft spot for either.
Space exists for roughly twenty fortunate guests to sit down and enjoy carefully selected cheese platters and wines served by the glass.
Within this rapidly transforming food and beverage landscape, numerous venues remain on my must-visit list. Fresh establishments appear to emerge monthly, each contributing a novel element to the area’s constantly shifting character.
Each occasion I believe I’ve kept pace, another stylish café or eatery launches, and the neighbourhood seems to transform just a touch more.
Nevertheless, despite all the acai bowls and handcrafted candles, Canton retains its essential spirit. Fruit can still be purchased from a chap who addresses everyone as “mate”, and key cutting remains available within five minutes from someone who’s clearly witnessed plenty.
A leisurely walk through Viccy Park with a flat white remains possible, or one can relax in historic Thompson’s Park whilst feeding the ducks. While Canton may seem like a suburban paradise, it’s not without its issues.
Cowbridge Road East has been grappling with antisocial behaviour for years, with local traders citing daily thefts, street drinking, drug use, and fights. In April alone, the road saw 123 crimes reported in just one month.
Despite these drawbacks, Canton still feels like home to me, even though I’ve moved to another suburb. (For the record, I don’t come from a wealthy background, so I’ve been priced out of Canton.).
So yes, my dear Canton has undergone a significant transformation. The brunches are Instagram-worthy, the pubs serve craft IPAs alongside traditional pints of Brains, and you can even take a cross-stitch class in a former pub.
But beneath the surface, the old Canton is still there, resonating with all my childhood memories. You can spruce it up with natural wines and street food courts, but Canton remains stubbornly, beautifully local.
And perhaps that’s why it deserves to be on any list, cool or otherwise.
