Jamie Oliver has just one restaurant in the UK – but what is it actually like? I headed down to London’s West End to find out
Jamie Oliver is one of the UK’s most recognised and acclaimed chefs, and at one point was even among the nation’s top-selling authors due to his plethora of cookbooks. However, his restaurant empire has not been as triumphant, with his Jamie’s Italian chain going under in 2019.
Today, he owns just a single eatery in the UK – Jamie Oliver Catherine St in Covent Garden, London. Boasting an impressive 4.4 Google Rating from over 1,400 reviews, I decided to pop in for a Friday night dinner to see what all the hype was about. The restaurant, hailed by some as Jamie’s London revival, was launched at the close of 2023 in collaboration with theatre mogul Andrew Lloyd Webber.
Why the theatrical link? The reason is because it’s situated within a stone’s throw of several major theatres and the renowned Covent Garden square, one of London’s primary tourist hotspots. If you’re seeking a pre or post-show meal, they hope Jamie’s is your destination of choice. But should it be?
In the exquisite culinary symphony that is London, should you opt for Jamie Oliver Catherine St even if you’re not heading to the opera, theatre, or dance floor afterwards? This isn’t Hamlet, but that is indeed the question.
Inside the restaurant
Upon first glance, it certainly looks the part. There’s a youthful vibe with chic decorations featuring paintings of the great, the good, the famous, and those who may one day be forgotten.
The restaurant certainly strives and succeeds in being lively and dynamic, much like some of Mr Lloyd Webber’s productions. Moreover, the service is swift, with the waiting staff always available and ready to answer your queries about allergens and wine pairings, but this is where a good deal of the success concludes.
The main course
The cuisine on offer isn’t Italian, but leans more towards the British side of Jamie’s culinary career, drawing inspiration from the food served at his parents’ old pub in Essex. Similar to when I reviewed James Martin’s Lygon Arms, I opted for a two-course strategy topped off with a double espresso.
However, since I wasn’t driving, a glass of red wine was added to the order to accompany the short-rib cottage pie with mustard mash, a bone marrow top, and red wine gravy. In fact, the wine, a Petrolo “Torrione” 2021, was described to me as one of Jamie’s favourites, and the best match for the pie.
If only that had been true, as the pie and mash tasted rather bland. Perhaps, as was the case with James Martin’s pork chop, some green vegetables would have lifted the unremarkable beef.
What was even more surprising was the wine, or more specifically its price. I was shocked to find out it cost Ā£17 a glass, despite not being anything extraordinary.
It was all perfectly edible, but if there are two words to encapsulate it (and indeed my entire experience), they would be disappointingly unmemorable.
The dessert
The desserts, however, were a different story. Due to a brief mix-up during the ordering process, I inadvertently ended up with two puddings. To my surprise, the restaurant kindly comped one of them, a gesture I discovered only after they arrived.
The desserts in question were a Rummy Raisin Apple Pie adorned with golden puff pastry, cinnamon sugar and Jude’s vegan vanilla ice cream, followed by Eve’s pudding, a comforting blend of steamed sponge, British apple compote and vanilla custard.
Of the two, Eve’s Pudding was the clear winner, its sponge, custard, and compote offering a soothing contrast to the overpowering sweetness of the Rummy Raisin. The latter felt like a failed attempt at recreating one of McDonald’s apple pies.
Final thoughts and rating
This, I suppose, is the crux of the matter when it comes to Jamie Oliver Catherine Street: the food is passable but forgettable; you don’t leave with any lasting impressions other than the staff being delightful. Its location and the pre- or post-show dining crowd will ensure it gets patrons.
However, when the final curtain fell, the food had all the style but lacked substance.
Rating: 6/10
Total bill – Ā£57.94
Breakdown:
- Beef pie: Ā£24
- Rummy Raisin Apple Pie: Ā£7
- Eveās Pudding: Ā£0 (Featured on the set menu so no price given)
- Double Espresso: Ā£3.50
- Petrolo āTorrioneā 175ml: Ā£17
- Service charge: Ā£6.44
