North Queensland: land of crocodiles, venomous snakes and the world’s oldest surviving tropical rainforest. What could go wrong?
Not a lot, in fact. It’s one of the only places on the planet where two huge UNESCO World Heritage sites meet, and it’s just beautiful.
Both are significant natural wonders – the Great Barrier Reef stretching for 1,430 miles offshore and the Wet Tropics rainforests covering a mighty 2.2 million acres along the coast. The tropical heat hit me as I arrived in Cairns and I was eager to immerse myself in the raw beauty of this untamed land.
I spent my first evening on a journey into the nocturnal world of the Great Barrier Reef, with a guided tour at the Cairns Aquarium, conveniently near my hotel, Novotel Oasis Hotel.
As night fell, I started the 1.5-hour experience which featured luminous corals and stealthy predators like the saltwater crocodile, a truly mesmerising encounter. The Cairns Aquarium is home to more than 15,000 animals, fish, plants, and other organisms endemic to the reef and rainforest of tropical North Queensland.
From the spectacular Deep Reef exhibit, offering a glimpse into the marine life of the deep waters, to the Oceanarium and underwater tunnel, where graceful leopard sharks and giant rays glide by, each exhibit shows the diversity of life that thrives beneath the waves.
This is all enjoyed with a tipple of your choice to sip as you walk around. I concluded my night with a two-course dinner at Dundee’s restaurant, set in the aquarium against a vast marine backdrop. Savouring my second glass of Pinot Grigio, paired with a fragrant vegan falafel and jasmine rice meal, I reflected on the wonders I had witnessed.
The next morning I took a trip over to Fitzroy Island – a tropical paradise 45 minutes from Cairns by boat. I had heard all about its pristine beaches, crystal-clear waters, snorkelling and kayaking, and couldn’t wait to experience it. One of the island’s main draws is Nudey Beach. With rainforest-lined white sands and natural boulders, it’s a tourists’ favourite for its warm waters and secluded location.
Along the winding track to get to the beach, which is rated as an easy hike (I’d recommend bringing sturdy walking shoes), you might even catch a glimpse of the island’s resident wildlife including goannas, sea eagles, bats, cockatoos, and monitor lizards.
Despite its name, I was quickly informed that visitors should keep their kit on while sunbathing, exploring, or taking a dip at the beach. It was dubbed ‘Nudey’ because it used to be a popular but unofficial nudist destination. Another island highlight, particularly if you’re a keen animal lover and conservationist like me, is the Cairns Turtle Rehabilitation Centre which is a volunteer-operated, non-profit organisation.
The Great Barrier Reef is home to six of the world’s seven species of marine turtles. Some are seriously threatened by a diverse range of natural and human-induced factors.
On a tour of the centre ($20 adults, $12 children) I got to meet 80-year-old turtle Raine, who has been a resident for a year now. She was found in bad health in a creek in Clairview by two young guests from a caravan park in May 2021 and transferred to Whitsundays Turtle Rehabilitation Centre where she was treated for floaters syndrome and coccidia parasites.
She was then moved to the Cairns Turtle Rehab Centre – so Raine has travelled more than 900 miles, all made possible by volunteers.
I then headed out on a glass-bottom boat to see how the reef’s current mass coral bleaching event has hit Cairns. One of the reef experts on the boat described the event as an “underwater bushfire” but said it’s likely to recover within the next few weeks with cooler temperatures on the way.
The next morning, as the sun rose over Cairns, I found myself ticking something else off my bucket list. To soar above the Atherton Tablelands in a hot air balloon. It was an early start at 3am, but the promise of a once-in-a-lifetime experience made it well worth it.
Arriving in Mareeba, I caught sight of a towering hot air balloon being inflated against the predawn sky. The warmth emanating from the roaring flames kept us cosy as we prepared for our flight over North Queensland.
Led by experienced pilots, our balloon ascended gracefully into the sky, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding bushland, creeks, and patchwork farmland below. From our vantage point of 3,600ft above sea level, I marvelled at the beauty of the landscape unfolding beneath as the first rays of the sun cast a warm glow over the countryside.
Along the way, there were glimpses of local wildlife, including wallabies and even a kangaroo, adding an extra element of excitement to the journey. It was then time for the exhilarating part – the landing. With hot air balloons, you can control the height and speed, but not the direction, and our descent brought us to a gentle touchdown in the middle of a grassy field.
The blissful morning in the skies was topped off with a champagne toast, waffles with honey, brownies, and fresh fruit – the perfect way to celebrate an unforgettable experience.
In the afternoon, I met with Alan Wallish, managing director and founder of Passions of Paradise, which offers snorkelling and diving tours in Cairns. From hands-on experiences like the Be A Marine Biologist For A Day package, to contributing to the Eye On The Reef programme, the company is all about promoting sustainable tourism.
Then as the day drew to a close, I savoured some Australian favourite foods at Ochre Restaurant on Cairns waterfront. I spent my final day in Australia exploring the ancient wilderness of the Daintree Rainforest, immersing myself in the cultural heritage of the Kuku Yalanji people.
It began with a private Aboriginal fishing tour on Cooya Beach, discovering the age-old practices of the indigenous people. Navigating through the mangroves and mudflats, we sought out the bounty of the sea, from mud crabs to barracuda fish. We then made our way to Mossman Gorge, a place of breathtaking beauty and cultural significance.
Here, I embarked on a Dreamtime Walk, led by indigenous local guides who shared stories and legends passed down through generations.
The journey along private tracks took us to sacred sites and traditional shelters, where we learned about the intimate connection between the Kuku Yalanji people and their environment.
Through demonstrations of traditional plant use and bush food sources, our guides provided insight into their unique way of life, fostering a deeper understanding of the rainforest’s significance.
One of the highlights of the tour was the traditional ‘smoking’ ceremony, a ritual to ward off bad spirits, before venturing deeper into the rainforest, walking along meandering streams and lush pathways.
North Queensland truly is a land of adventure and discovery, where every corner reveals an exciting new marvel waiting to be explored.
Book the holiday
- DialAFlight offers a 10 night North Queensland Adventure Package including Cairns, Daintree Rainforest, Fitzroy Island (for Cairns Turtle Rehabilitation Centre) and the Great Barrier Reef from £2,495pp. Includes international flights, four days’ car hire, 10 nights’ accommodation at Novotel Cairns Oasis Resort (room-only) and Daintree Eco Lodge (B&B), private transfer on arrival and two excursions to Fitzroy Island and the Great Barrier Reef. Price based on travel between February 1 – March 31, 2025. To book call DialAFlight on 020 7962 9933. dialaflight.com
- More info at queensland.com
