Edward Syers visits some ridiculously beautiful islands and finds sun, sea, song and some of the world’s best beaches – yet there aren’t huge crowds
Santa Monica beach: the famous pier, games of volleyball, colourful lifeguard huts and roller skating couples in the California sunshine. I’m on Santa Monica beach too… only it couldn’t be more different.
Here, at the south of Boa Vista island in Cape Verde, off the west coast of Africa, you wouldn’t get far on a pair of skates. The sand is soft, the landscape is dramatic, and it’s only accessible in a 4×4. But don’t worry, at least there’s a beach bar.
This Santa Monica beach is all ours, and it’s curious that it isn’t more popular. Named after that Californian shore, it was listed among the world’s most beautiful in the TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice Awards only a few years ago, yet it still feels undiscovered.
In a way, it’s fitting. Boa Vista itself is often overlooked in favour of Sal, an island to the north that takes in the majority of Cape Verde’s holidaymakers. We have the beach to ourselves, but at times it feels like this whole island is ours.
Despite its relative isolation, getting here is a breeze. TUI flies direct from multiple UK airports, and you won’t need a visa to enter. It’s a six hour flight with no jetlag as the time difference is only one or two hours, depending if it’s summer or winter. The tiny brick airport, most of which is outdoors, is as welcoming as they come. It feels like queuing for a theme park ride, not a passport check.
It’s here that our holiday in Cape Verde, an archipelago 350 miles off the coast of Senegal, begins. We’re whisked away on a five-minute transfer to TUI’s Riu Palace Boavista, where we’re given a royal welcome fitting of its name.
I’m handed a cold drink before heading to my room, where the minibar is full and a private pool awaits. Despite the midday sun, cool winds from the Atlantic offset the African heat. I could get used to this.
After a cold beer and a plunge, it’s time to check out the rest of the resort. Even here, with 505 rooms across 10 buildings, there’s a sense of quiet. “We’re at about 90% capacity this week,” the hotel manager tells us, much to my surprise.
Only when the entertainment starts, be it aqua-aerobics or an evening show, do I see anything resembling a crowd. Even then, it seemed suspiciously sparse once my stint on the karaoke was over. I can’t think why. Our pre-dinner stroll takes us past the resort’s three beachside pools, two of which offer swim-up bars. The beach itself sees rows of sun loungers hidden under palm trees, while the spa shelters an adult-only Jacuzzi pool and countless treatments. You know, just in case the rest of the resort isn’t relaxing enough.
Those feeling more adventurous can head to the water park at the adjacent Riu Karamboa resort instead, or grab a set of snorkels at the watersports hut. I end the night with a much needed rack of ribs at the steakhouse, one of three a la carte options in addition to the main buffet restaurant. The all-inclusive Riu Palace also offers a Japanese restaurant as well as fine dining at Krystal, where the duck breast was a particular highlight. Guests here don’t go hungry, nor are they starved of variety.
The next morning we’re picked up by our tour guide Paulo to see more of Boa Vista, starting with the island’s former capital Rabil. Our first stop is an unassuming brick building on a hill where we meet Joao, whose family has been making pottery here for over 40 years. Locals are playing music outside as we look around, and next door, shop owners encourage me to try the island’s rum. They call it fire water, for good reason. “Four shots and you’ll learn every language in the world,” Paulo laughs. I didn’t test his theory.
As we leave the town behind and head further inland, I get an otherworldly sense about Boa Vista. Roads are replaced by rocky trails, and before long we’re surrounded by golden sand dunes that contrast strikingly against the rugged landscape beyond. The scene almost feels Martian, although the sand surfing brings me crashing back to Earth. Literally.
Our next stop is Santa Maria beach to see a rusting shipwreck that has sat in full view for 50 years, and further along the coast we pass by a protected nesting site for loggerhead turtles, the third largest on the planet. If not for the wreck, I could believe this stretch had never been touched by humans. I can see why the turtles like it so much.
As much as I enjoy the untouched nature of Boa Vista, our arrival at Morabeza Beach Bar soon after is a welcome one. We first had a pit stop in the island’s capital Sal Rei, a distinctly African town interwoven with European influence. Morabeza, a little further down the coast, has calmer vibes. Reggae music plays in the background, and sand replaces floorboards underfoot. The normal world feels far away here, but our stargazing excursion the following night takes that feeling to a whole new stratosphere.
As the sun sets on our third day, we’re driven to the desert and settle down for dinner at a cosy restaurant among the dunes. We’re invited outside to see the night sky in all its glory, hearing talks from our passionate host as we peer through telescopes to see the stripes of Jupiter and its moons.
After our chicken and rice has settled, we’re led on a short walk into the dunes and relax on a blanket to see the constellations. Light pollution and cloud cover aren’t a problem, and the result is a mesmerising canvas unlike anything I’ve seen in the UK. You don’t need to be an astronomy lover to appreciate it.
Our focus the next day is what’s below us, rather than above. Boa Vista is one of only two breeding sites for humpback whales in the north Atlantic, so we make the short journey back to Sal Rei to board a catamaran in the hope of seeing some elusive giants.
We start the afternoon optimistic. “Over there! On the horizon!” I shout enthusiastically, pointing at the faint outline of what looks like a whale as it jumps into view before disappearing again behind a wave.
A ripple of excitement spreads throughout the catamaran, but the marine biologist on board patiently calms us all down. “It’s just a boat,” she smirks. Somehow I doubt that’s the first time she’s uttered those words.
We eventually catch a distant glimpse of humpbacks, which breed here between March and May each year, but it’s fleeting. Still, to share the water with whales while within sight of my hotel is a surreal experience.
There’s no doubt Boa Vista feels isolated, but that’s far from a weakness. Towns are slow-paced, landscapes are unspoiled, and the people are friendly and relaxed. The island is small and TUI offers an irresistible gateway to it from its Riu Palace oasis. When you do venture out, you’ll find nature and serenity in abundance. And if you can have one of the world’s best beaches all to yourself, even better.
Book the holiday
- TUI offers seven nights on all-inclusive at the RIU Palace Boa Vista in Cape Verde starting at £1,230pp. Depart from Gatwick on April 19, 2026 with 20kg baggage and transfers. tui.co.uk
- Boa Vista full-day 4×4 island tour £85pp; Sandboarding at Morra de Areia dunes £26pp, Desert Delight stargazing £59pp, Whale Watching Cruise £76pp. tui.co.uk/things-to-do/boa-vista.
- More info at visit-caboverde.com
