I went on a sleeper train from London Euston to Scotland – and one thing really caught me off guard

Travel Reporter Lucy Williamson took the Caledonian Sleeper Train to Edinburgh – here’s her verdict

As I stepped onto the train, I caught myself mentally noting everyone’s location; the couple by the lounge door, the man with the briefcase, the woman in the tartan scarf. Just in case I had to recount it all later to a detective with a moustache. But alas, this wasn’t Murder on the Orient Express . This was just the Caledonian Sleeper train from London Euston to Edinburgh.

Having recently put Eurostar Premier to the test, it was time to really put London train travel through its paces. So over to Euston Station I went. And one thing caught me off guard – there were some guests on board I didn’t expect to see.

At 10pm, while most trains are shuttering their doors for the night, the Caledonian Sleeper glows quietly on its own platform. I was greeted by friendly staff, who are always on hand in the night. Before boarding, I popped into the Caledonian Sleeper Lounge – tucked away right by the train. It’s a sleek space that looks more business-class lounge than railway waiting room. Inside, there’s free tea and coffee, a self-serve fridge with soft drinks and snacks, and a quiet hum of polite excitement. People chat softly, read newspapers, or sip miniature bottles of wine before boarding.

All aboard the Caledonian Sleeper

The Caledonian Sleeper runs six nights a week from London to Scotland, with routes to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Fort William, Inverness and Aberdeen. There are four types of accommodation: Classic rooms (twin bunk beds, shared toilets), Club rooms (bunks with an en suite shower and toilet), and Caledonian Double rooms (a proper double bed, if you’re feeling flush).

If you’re on a tighter budget, you can book a seat instead of a cabin – starting from about £60. It’s not luxury, but for those who’d rather arrive at 7am than waste a day travelling, it’s a clever alternative to a long drive. And more eco-friendly than a flight.

The price for the Caledonian Sleeper train varies significantly by room type and route, but starts at around £54 for a reclining seat and goes up to £445 or more for a Double room to Edinburgh or Glasgow. A single Classic Solo room can start at £140, while a Club Solo en-suite room is from £250. Prices are lower when booked further in advance

The train rolled out of Euston around 11.30pm, and we drifted to the Club Car for a late dinner. You can order from a small but appealing menu of Scottish dishes: haggis and tatties; smoked salmon and what I went for – Mac N’ Cheese (£14).

A surprisingly solid night’s sleep

My Club cabin was small but cleverly designed; a sort of minimalist hotel room with a strong sense of purpose. The lower bunk doubles as a sofa, and the en suite toilet folds down into a surprisingly decent wet room (once you figure out how it works). On the bed: crisp sheets, a sleep kit with an eye mask and ear plugs, and a complimentary Scottish chocolate bar. There’s Wi-Fi, sockets, and USB points, though the connection can be patchy once you’re deep into the countryside.

I’m not a naturally good sleeper on transport, I’ve never once nodded off on a plane, but the Caledonian Sleeper is different. The rhythm of the train is oddly soothing, like being rocked to sleep in a very expensive pram. I woke a few times when the carriage jolted or groaned its way through a junction, but mostly I drifted in and out of sleep quite happily. The bed’s narrow, though; if you’re tall or broad, you might feel like a human bookmark.

But there were some guests I didn’t expect to see. I noticed there were quite a few dogs on board. You can actually bring pets on board. Up to two domestic animals are allowed in your cabin for £30 per journey, which covers the deep clean afterwards.

There are a few rules: pets aren’t allowed in the Seated Coach, the Club Car, or on the beds, and they need to stay on the floor and within your booked carriage at all times. But they have to be able to hold their bathroom trip for the whole journey. Otherwise that cleaning fee might just grow….

Breakfast, sort of

The only real disappointment came in the morning. Normally, Club guests can have breakfast served in the lounge car; a cooked Scottish breakfast, bacon rolls, coffee refills. But the kitchen in our part of the train was closed, meaning we had to make do with “breakfast in bed”: a small yoghurt, a pancake, and instant coffee.

Still, the novelty of waking up to see dawn light over the Scottish hills more than made up for it. Around 7am we slid quietly into Edinburgh Waverley, right in the middle of the city, and stepped off the train feeling oddly refreshed. Within 30 minutes I’d checked into my hotel (The W Edinburgh) and was wandering down Princes Street with a coffee, the day already mine to fill. That’s the real magic of the sleeper; you travel while you sleep, and wake up somewhere entirely new.

The practical perks

By far the greatest advantage of the sleeper is how much time it saves. You leave London late at night and wake up in the middle of Edinburgh, with the whole day ahead of you. There’s no airport transfer, no waiting for baggage, no early alarm. I was out exploring before most people had finished their cornflakes. It’s this sense of efficiency wrapped in old-school charm that makes the Caledonian Sleeper so satisfying.

Waverley Station spills you straight into the city centre — unlike the airport, which is a good 30 minutes out. Within walking distance you’ve got the Royal Mile, Arthur’s Seat, and more cafés and whisky bars than you could possibly need before noon.

If you’re continuing north, the Caledonian Sleeper can actually take you even further; to the Highlands, to Fort William or Inverness — on what many describe as one of the most scenic train journeys in the world.

The verdict

The Caledonian Sleeper sits in that rare sweet spot between nostalgia and practicality. Yes, it’s more expensive than a flight, but it’s infinitely more enjoyable – and you don’t waste a precious travel day. You step off the train in the heart of Edinburgh, ready to explore.

So no, there was no murder mystery that night. But when I woke up to the sound of bagpipes faintly echoing through the station and the promise of Castles, dungeons, ghosts and tunnels ready to explore in Scotland’s capital – there was certainly an air of mystique.

More info on the Caledonian Sleeper Train can be found here: https://www.sleeper.scot/

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