Chiara Herlemann, 28, visited the Middle Eastern country from May 22 to May 31 and says she was pleasantly surprised by the kindness of the locals and the lack of religious extremism
A Londoner who visited Iran says the besieged country is nothing like she expected.
Tourist Chiara Herlemann, a Notting Hill local, was taken aback by the Iran beneath the headlines, as her holiday in the Middle East proved to be an illuminating escape. The 28-year-old German native embarked on a ten-day journey through Iran, from Kashan to Isfahan, filled with anxiety based on ominous online reports prior to her May 22 departure.
However, the intrepid traveller found Iran’s warm welcome and genial environment far removed from her apprehensions and the country’s portrayal. Chiara said: “I was very nervous to go and a lot of my friends were warning me that it was really dangerous.
“When I got there, I was so surprised. Every time I saw something about Iran in the news it was just some blurry pictures that looked like North Korea. Everything was so different from what I expected. The people were so friendly. The men were helping me with my bags and making sure I was okay.
“People seem quite content there. They are getting on with normal life, picnicking, children were playing in ponds. There was no haggling or catcalling. It was just normal.”
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Remote work affords Chiara the luxury of globe-trotting as part of her job at an investment company. Some of her preconceptions about the country regard women’s role in society.
During her initial visit, she was taken aback by the number of women who did not cover their hair. “There are definitely misconceptions. Mostly about women’s rights and people being supportive of the government. They are not extremists. The population is separate from the government,” she said.
“I was also surprised that most of the women are without head scarfs. That was always in the news that women aren’t allowed to show their hair, but it was very different from what I thought. It is known as an Islamic country, but it doesn’t really feel like it, it was very westernised. As a woman you have an instinct when something isn’t right, and there wasn’t a single moment where I felt like that.”
Chiara enthused that the most enchanting parts of her journey were the amicable locals and the local cuisine, with the Blue Mosque topping her list of sights.
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One of the unusual aspects of being a tourist in Iran comes from the sanctions that have been placed on the country. Upon her arrival, Chiara had to swap SIM cards since hers wouldn’t work in Iran due to these restrictions.
By the time tensions escalated into war between Israel and Iran on June 13, the tourist had already returned home. She recalled: “The news was reporting that Israel might act, so that was always in the back of my mind. But it happened shortly after I left. Iran is so big. I wish I had more time there.”
Chiara’s impression of the country is very much at odds with reports made by the likes of Amnesty International. At the end of 2024, Iranian authorities adopted a new draconian law “that further erases the human rights of women and girls, imposing the death penalty, flogging, prison terms and other severe penalties to crush ongoing resistance to compulsory veiling”, Amnesty International said at the time.
The Law on Protecting the Family through the Promotion of the Culture of Chastity and Hijab is a “dangerous escalation, the law permits the imposition of the death penalty for peaceful activism against Iran’s discriminatory compulsory veiling laws.”
The law imposes flogging, exorbitant fines, harsh prison sentences, travel bans, and restrictions on education and employment for women and girls who defy compulsory veiling laws. It also penalizes private entities that fail to enforce compulsory veiling, while providing impunity to officials and vigilantes who violently attack women and girls for defying it.
In 2022, protesters risked their lives by taking to the streets of cities across Iran, following the death of Mahsa Jina Amini in police custody. Mahsa had been locked up, accused of violating the draconian dress code. “Woman, Life, Freedom” became the rallying cry of her supporters and those who had grown tired of living under the thumb of the Islamic Republic.
At least 551 protesters, including 68 children, were killed as of 15 September 2023 during the protests, according to Iran Human Rights. Just shy of 20,000 people were arrested.
The UK Foreign Office advises that Brits do not travel to Iran. Its advice reads: “FCDO advises against all travel to Iran. If you are a British national already in Iran, either resident or visitor, carefully consider your presence there and the risks you take by staying.
“British and British-Iranian dual nationals are at significant risk of arrest, questioning or detention. Having a British passport or connections to the UK can be reason enough for the Iranian authorities to detain you.”
