A picturesque underrated city rivals Amsterdam with its gorgeous canals and waterfront cafés but has the added bonus that you won’t have to face the tourist crowds
Brits may flock to Amsterdam for its picturesque canals, waterfront bars and bicycle tours, but there’s one tiny underrated town that’s giving the holiday hotspot a run for its money.
I headed to Papenburg, Germany, to watch Disney Cruise Line float out its newest ship, but I wasn’t expecting to find a direct Amsterdam dupe. Pretty canals? Check. Plenty of restaurants and bars? Check. Tourist attractions? Check.
Sure, Papenburg doesn’t quite have the buzz and nightlife to rival the Netherlands’ capital, but it definitely had the advantage of offering up the gorgeous scenery without the crowds of tourists. (Although it’s worth mentioning that Amsterdam is taking some major steps to combat overtourism).
The German city has a population of just under 40,000 so there’s quite a laidback vibe. The main stretch of canals in the centre is where you’ll find the bulk of the attractions, all of which pay tribute to its 230 years of maritime history. Cars aren’t allowed alongside the canal so it’s purely cyclists and pedestrians, which only contributes to the quieter, calmer atmosphere to the region.
If you walk up what I’d describe as the ‘touristy’ bit of the canal, you can do the whole stretch in about an hour. A nice touch is that there’s a little walking trail with signs along the way to point out any historic buildings or quirky spots that are well worth a photo opp. For example, there are plenty of historic bridges, while the canal banks are lined with colourful flowers and lush green trees that make for a backdrop which wouldn’t be out of place on a postcard.
One highlight is also the number of historic ships that are still moored in the canals, with boards explaining their significance and the role they played. One of these is the impressive Friederike replica which looks like it belongs on the set of any pirate film, with its impressive masts and stern. There are plenty more nods to the maritime ties of this city, including statues and large anchors to be found along the walk.
Meanwhile when it comes to restaurants and shops, I was pretty impressed with the wide array on offer considering it’s such a small patch of the city. There are heaps of boutiques selling plenty of nautical-themed souvenirs, including one shop in a restored windmill where you can get plenty of merch.
The quirky Alte Drostei – the oldest standing historic building in the city of Papenburg – is also worth a stop as it’s filled with historic artefacts, and hosts plenty of events such as readings, exhibitions, and guided tours.
Meanwhile if all of the exploring leaves you with an appetite, there are plenty of restaurants and cafés serving up local fare from currywurst to salads. Just make sure to leave space for the all-important Spaghettieis – ice cream that is made to look like spaghetti. Think vanilla ice cream for the ‘pasta’, strawberry sauce for the ‘tomatoes’ and white chocolate shavings for the ‘parmesan’.
One of the members of our group was German and assured us that this isn’t a tourist dish but rather one that everyone in Germany has from childhood. It’s not difficult to understand why – it was ridiculously tasty!
For cruise fans, one of the big draws of Papenburg is that it’s a short drive from the Meyer Weft shipyard. You can book tours of the shipyard and get a sneak peek at what goes into actually building these huge cruise ships. This means that there are buses of tourists that stop off at Papenburg as part of wider coach holidays, but even when there were a few coaches in the city it still didn’t feel too crowded.
Where Papenburg doesn’t rival Amsterdam is the nightlife. There are a handful of pubs – Jameson’s Pub was popular with locals and tourists alike – but the vibe here is more relaxed.
Book the holiday
Get there: The nearest airport is Hanover which is about a 2.5-3 hour drive away. British Airways offers direct flights with a flight time of approximately an hour.
Stay there: We stayed at the Best Western Plus Hotel Papenburg which is right by the canals. Rooms start from £132 a night based on an August weekend break with two adults sharing a room.
You can find out more about Papenburg on niedersachsen-tourism.com.
